A generation ago, Singapore's Chinatown was a crowded and chaotic
place. Then the authorities launched a massive urban renewal campaign.
They razed derelict buildings, modernized services and cracked down
on informal businesses. Part of their justification was to make
the district more attractive to tourists. But tourists stayed away,
complaining that the place had lost its soul. For the last two decades,
officials have been working to bring back Chinatown's authentic
feel. Architecturally the project has been a success, but it hasn't
restored the old vitality. Critics say the streets today feel more
like a shopping mall than a living neighborhood.
Mr. S.W. Fong is a fourth generation mat weaver. He grew up in
Chinatown and remembers it as a vibrant community. Since redevelopment
drove up the prices of remaining buildings in Chinatown, small shopkeepers
such as Mr. Fong can't afford to buy the buildings they once owned.
Because the Indian community still comes here to shop, Little India
remains a vibrant mix of neighborhood stores, restaurants, and temples.
Many business people, like these two women, can survive by selling
from small stalls.
You can still see the original shophouses in Little India. The
British built these with commercial space on the bottom floor and
living quarters above.