When the Malaysian government moved 15,000 indigenous people off
their land to build the Bakun dam in the state of Sarawak, on the
island of Borneo, most ended up in the twin towns of Asap and Koyan
(pictured left). Both towns feature small commercial areas where
some business people have prospered. Unemployment has become a problem,
however.
Most Koyan residents try to continue their traditional ways, living
in longhouses like these (right). But government policies and urbanization
have made that increasingly difficult. Drug abuse and crime are
severely testing the indigenous justice system, compelling residents
to rely on police and government courts.
Some 400 members of the Kenyah ethnic group decided to build their
own resettlement center, organized and governed like the community
they were forced to leave. Villagers welcome visitors to Long Lawen
by performing traditional dances.
The women's fluid motions show their beauty; the men's fierce stomps
show their prowess in battle. The woman at right has the traditional
“long ears,” ear lobes distended with jewelry. Many Kenyah are voluntarily
giving up the long ears as impractical in the modern world.
In Long Lawen, people are generally poorer than residents of the
government towns. They say they are willing to trade prosperity
for local control. Villagers sleep on hammocks or straw mats
Long Lawen headman Gara Jalong visits the village power station.
The generator provides 10,000 watts, one day's power for a typical
US home, but enough to provide light for the entire village. The
generator doubles as a rice flour mill.
Kenyah
Sape (or Sapeh) music
